LCF MA16 Womenswear Preview
This Thursday, London Fashion Week AW16 kicks off with one of the week's most exciting shows: the London College of Fashion, UAL’s MA Womenswear catwalk featuring collections from ten graduates from the MA Fashion Design Technology Womenswear course. Here's a preview of the names set to make waves in British fashion and the genesis of their final collections.
Zhixian Wang: 'I based my collection on the Chinese poet and writer San Mao. San Mao spent her life seeking freedom and true love. I grew up reading her stories; my collection is kind of like a small dream, representing her poem with my designs. Hers was a sad, romantic story but she was a very strong woman.'
Lauren Lake: 'I don’t have just one muse, it’s more like a tribe of women who would wear my clothes; powerful and confident women from their early 20s to their 40s who are fun and confident. My collection, Some Girls Aren’t Meant to Be Tamed, is inspired by Romany Gypsies; it’s based on their rawness and fun, mixed with a modern-day women.'
Ning Xu: 'My final collection explores a spirit called “depth of thinking and identity”. The inspiration came from myself. When I was a child, I had an accident and at that time I couldn’t hear anything clearly. I could only hear pieces and fragments of sound in my head. I was really shy and I didn’t want to talk to people so it was a very emotional experience, and this is what I used to create and develop my collection.'
Pelin Isildak: 'I started by analysing uniforms to see why we’ve worn them throughout history. I began to see that people wear uniforms to be part of society, but it’s also because of hierarchy claimed by authorities or states. I then started looking at hierachy between 1600-1900s and how we defined nobility through dress and uniform. I also looked at what common people wore. I wanted to mix the noble with common in a single moment of dress.'
Yiru Sui: 'The entire collection is based around geometry and zen. I combined the two to form my collection. I wanted to create a clean look but also combined that with nature which is why I used wood with simple, pure colours like white. By deconstructing the traditional structures of the pieces, I was able to create numerous silhouettes.'
Yawen Qian: 'My final collection is called Sick. It’s inspired by and dedicated to my parents - both of them are doctors. At first, I focused on the hospital itself but then I looked at the fashion of disabled people. Many details in my garments reference my research into this. There’s no extras on any of my garments; all the pieces that make up each garment in my collection are very big and I combine them into one.'
Ysabel Lee: 'My final collection is inspired the Meiji Ishin restoration, which took place in Japan in the 1860s. I combined this with the state we are living in today; we are getting bored of all the information we are exposed to. I used squares, rectangles and cubes as the elements for my collection. Visually, I took inspiration from the kimono and added a modern touch to it. I always like to use black and dark colours; patterned fabric can destroy the structural details you want to show.'
Alexandru Tunsu: 'My collection is called ‘Massacre of the Innocence’. I started looking at the life-cycle of the garment: how they are born, how they mature and how they die in a way. I started developing different techniques to create ‘ghosts of garments’. This then became the afterlife of the garment. I wanted to look at garments like a person, taking that concept quite literally, creating garments with pre-made fabrics which I’d then destroy and recreate.'
Desirée Slabik: 'My collection is called ‘Life after People’. It is inspired by an American documentary in which scientists/experts talk about a future when everyone on earth has vanished. I wanted to portray a possible future for this: white clean architecture mixed with the organic which represents the vegetation left on the planet. The whole collection is built up from this development: the first piece is a strong, bold, architectural shape and the last piece is a large flower bomb.'
Kirim Yun: 'I took inspiration from 19th century children’s garments which is why there are quite a lot of petticoats in my collection. I wanted to create a hyper-pretty look. I chose pink because I wanted to create something that would make people think of love.'
Photography Felix Cooper; creative direction Anders Sølvsten Thomsen.