Best of Milan Mens Fashion Week


1177620 Military, punk, 1950s Americana: inspiration came from far and wide as designers at Milan Fashion Week injected more colour and joyousness into men's collections that ever before.

Ports1961, SS17.

PORTS1961 @Ports1961 ‘Vukmirovic’s fourth collection for Ports 1961 was one imbued with flower emblems, tone-on-tone embroidered bomber jackets and ceremonial braiding – toying with a romanticised military look. Conveying a poetic nod in a different direction, the collection encapsulated the empowered masculinity of today’s urban dandy.’

DSquared2, SS17.

DSQUARED2 @Dsquared2 ‘Identical design provocateurs Dean and Dan Canten can always be relied upon to inject some camp playfulness into the fashion week calendar and yesterday’s show was no exception: glam rock with a detour through some of London’s rich – and at times hard edged- sub-cultural heritage.’

Jil Sander, SS17.

JIL SANDER @JilSanderPR ‘Lightness was there in the papery textiles, and in their colours. Appropriately for Jil Sander, neutrals dominated – sand, you see, and mushrooms taupes and greys. A couple of suits were printed to seem sun-bleached from, say, a jade-green hem through to a powdery-white shoulder. Even the leather was tissue-fine, albeit in black to close like a delicious sheet of liquorice. Will men really want to wear black leather in summertime? When it looks as good as Sander’s, sure. ‘

Marni, SS17.

MARNI @marniofficial ‘It’s a season shaping up to be about bits: accessories – see above – and fashion accoutrements, for all the additional little constructions that featured at Marni to make it a collection of pronounced shapes in a warped Fifties American workwar colour palette. So there were slashes at the back of coats and shirts so collars and lapels sat stiff and away from the body. It was like someone had come and tugged at what you were wearing, pulled it out of shape and into a new one.’

_VER0051_592x888VERSACE @Versace ‘Donatella Versace has been moving her menswear towards a reality for a few seasons, usually through sportswear. Here, the wearability saturated into pretty much every look. Zip-up blousons came in old Versace prints that had been over-dyed to create a deeper colour palette. Single-breasted jackets were in a jersey that kept its shape, so they could be treated badly to no ill effect.’

Neil Barrett, SS17.

NEIL BARRETT @neilbarrett ‘Appliqué diagonal panels ran down the legs of trousers and arms or jackets to channel a retro-military feel, while Barrett’s now signature cuffed legs brought his luxe-sportwear element as to be expected. Teamed with leather blazers and suede bombers, they proved Barrett has his streamlined aesthetic one hundred percent down – no matter the era to hand.’

Helen Anthony, SS17.

HELEN ANTHONY @HelenAnthonys ‘Newcomer @HelenAnthonys SS17 says "We are the quiet confidence, the assured style" Nope. Very loud, but very skilled.’ @its_eugene_lin

Phillip Plein, SS17.

PHILIPP PLEIN @philipp_plein ‘Every season the designer goes bigger than the last – we’ve had monster trucks, flaming cars and light up lorries – but his SS17 extravaganza was perhaps his most outrageous yet. Think NBA meets Zoolander meets Bring It On meets rap concert and you’ve about got the gist of it.’

Vivienne Westwood, SS17.

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD @FollowWestwood ‘As ever, Westwood’s politics were imbued into the very fabric of these clothes, many of which were emblazoned with the graphic “IoU”, which stands for “Intellectuals Unite” – her call for the intellectual class to “use their talents to cut through the false narratives of the political class, and lead the way, with their privileged positions in society, to mass demonstrations that demand a fast transition to clean energy.”

Prada, SS17.

PRADA @Prada ‘First things first: the vivid blue jacket with yellow and orange technical zips is a total winner. And then there are all those layers: a light green shirt with a mini tortoise print; another with the print of a sweet beach hut. They were great, classic Prada. There was another shirt with hand-drawn symbols of world travels: a Buddha, an elephant, the Taj Mahal. The word novelty might sound naff, but it’s these novelty shirts that will please a customer already addicted.’

Moncler Gamme Bleu, SS17.

MONCLER GAMME BLEU @Moncler ‘Thom Browne’s spring Moncler Gamme Bleu [was about] all-American Boy Scouts and camping trips, nostalgia for the wide open spaces of the great outdoors, and Moncler’s history as a sleeping-bag producer par excellence. That’s why every Moncler man was a class in a cape-cum-sleeping bag, stripped off to reveal multiple pockets, khaki, big fat wide checked loveliness from head to toe, and lots and lots of shorts.’

Diesel Black Gold, SS17.

DIESEL BLACK GOLD @DieselBlackGold ‘Andreas Melbostad had been leafing through “Small Trades”, a book of Irving Penn portraits of workmen in the fifties, when designing his Spring 2017 Diesel Black Gold Collection. Given the foundation of the label in denim – the fabric of the everyman, and workwear in origin – is it any number he found inspiration in their clobber for his clobber?’

Etro, SS17.

ETRO @EtroOfficial ‘Models — some of them barefoot, others in sandals — wore suits with boxy jackets, sleeves and trouser legs rolled; wide-leg jeans, and loose, drapey cardigans. There was pattern everywhere, from blurry Ikat on trousers, tops and jackets, to more traditional plaids and checks for languid linen suits. Colors were inspired by the blue of the sea, as in an indigo denim safarilike jacket. Let’s hope the man on the street takes note.’


MSGM @msgm_ ‘This collection was dedicated to rave culture, to counter culture, to club culture …. Massimo Giorgetti cranked up the music loud and pumped the lights hard and fast to house beat as his MSGM boys came bouncing out in pattern, colour and bright, sporty separates. It was about energy, vitality and spontaneous, electric fun.’

Bottega Veneta, SS17.

BOTTEGA VENETA @BottegaVeneta ‘The Forties was Tomas Maier’s touchstone decade this time, telegraphed by roomy pants that puddle over two-tone saddle shoes, and a borderline-drab wartime palette. Tailoring in lustrous cotton blends or deliberately rumpled, metal-flecked linen had the same slouchy and elongated line as his fall 2016 collection. Workwear details like utility pockets, metal studs and leather patches tempered the luxury factor of the sportswear.’

Marc Jacobs Man, SS17.

MARC JACOBS MEN @themarcjacobs ‘The leopard and checkerboard prints — worn with inimitable flair by a young Keith Richards on the mood board — came sun-bleached or dyed Pepto-Bismol pink for groovy shirts, sweaters and spangled jackets. Bandmate Mick Jagger, whose shoulders have shimmied many a spangled blouson, was pictured, too. Jacobs’ jackets came shrunken with contrast piping, shown over ballooning pants.’

Gucci, SS17.

GUCCI @gucci ‘It wouldn’t be new-era Gucci without a heavy dose of embellished, encrusted, burnished, twinkling bounty to lend a touch of fantasy to proceedings. And Alessandro Michele - the man who has so remarkably reinvented Gucci since he took over in January 2015 - didn’t disappoint, with his eclectic, more-is-more approach throwing together historical references, Seventies silhouettes, beadwork, embroidery, chinoiserie and everything in between. It was a dizzying, wholly seductive mix.’

Fendi, SS17.

FENDI @Fendi ‘Picasso formed the basis for the latest Fendi Spring 2017 mens show, alongside fellow intellectual heavy-weights of Salvador Dali and Albert Einstein, even. The models, in short shorts and short-sleeves, sauntered around a deep blue something in a cabana-inspired set. Einstein on the beach? Appaz. Stripes were a key leitmotif, harking back to a Fendi signature print that caused a frenzy in the eighties and was exuberantly revived today – redolent of deckchairs to us Brits so perfectly fitting the theme.’