LCM: Nasir Mazhar SS16


nasir_mazhar_ss16_001 I’m about as un-street as they come but even I appreciate the talents of Nasir Mazhar. The clothes may appear steeped in sportswear and streetwear reference but it’s telling that the Leytonstone-raised, Turkish Cypriot designer detests the terminology and the attempt to pigeonhole him. Maybe being self-taught frees you from the frou-frou of fashion precepts. If that’s the case, more please. Mazhar’s collections are always uncompromising and that integrity holds true on the catwalks: bolshy, attitude-laden models of both sexes are cast from Instagram and social media. Recently, Mazhar has been exploring a more diverse menu of shapes and fabrics: super-inflated bombers, exaggerated necklines, sportswear cut from metallic jacquards or slick silk nylons invigorated AW15. Same again for SS16. The use of ruched nylon to create track suits and zip-up tops created new riffs; leather harnesses over bare chests lent a bondage-like undertone to track pants. The only ‘colour’ was a marbled, camp-like grey, shaped into sweat tops and boxing shorts. Menswear is more successful than womenwear, which resorts too easily to crop tops and cut offs, but while the overall look is seems to belong to a very specific group, the skill of ex-miliner Masseur has always been to create signature pieces - the Bully cap with pencil holder, case in point - that work. Even on people as un-street as me.