'While shapes were kept simple, the fabric was anything but': Sadie Williams SS17. SADIE WILLIAMS ‘While shapes were kept simple, the fabric was anything but. A skirt was made out of a patchwork of maritime signal flags used as communication tools between ships. Apart from having a very useful role on the waters, these flags make for a really fun and unexpected reference. ‘ www.wonderlandmagazine.com

White witches and paganism: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi SS17. Picture: Yannis Vlamos.

PREEN ‘Cue a spring summer collection that focused on white witches and paganism: the love for Mother Nature found its way on to a petal strewn runway, across dresses and then caressed the lips and faces of the models.’ www.ft.com

Ancient Greek references: Mary Katrantzou. Picture: Indigital.

MARY KATRANTZOU ‘You didn’t need to be an archaeologist to unearth the Ancient Greek references behind Mary Katrantzou’s show. There were key patterns, terracotta vase-like silhouettes, women’s faces in repose that looked straight off a fresco …’ www.ft.com

Toothpaste-fresh: J JS Lee SS17.

J JS LEE ‘The JJ S Lee show … was a toothpaste-fresh introduction to next spring’s collections. This designer has gone about her work quietly and stylishly and should have more recognition than she currently gets.’ www.telegraph.co.uk

'A sexy collection in the traditional sense of the word': Topshop Unique SS17.

TOPSHOP UNIQUE ‘It was a sexy collection in the traditional sense of the word in that it played with concealing and revealing. This might have put some shoppers off given that generally, clothes including tight PVC dresses look considerably different on models than non-models, but there was plenty to desire and one particular cropped leather jacket in navy jumped straight to the top of our shopping list.’ www.refinery29.uk

'The collection lived up to its name as a tropical treasure': Peter Pilotto SS17. Picture: Indigital.

PETER PILOTTO ‘Maybe it is the English fashion climate that breeds work that is both erudite and easy. For all the artistic references, from sun-bleached frescoes to London-based sculptor Francis Upritchard, the Peter Pilotto collection was simple, if striking, and lived up to its name as a tropical treasure.’ www.vogue.co.uk

'Mitford style tea-dresses and ruffled mules': Mulberry SS17. Picture: Indigital.

MULBERRY ‘It’s always flattering to see foreigners like Coca (Seville-born, Paris/London-native) interpreting British style – assuming they have a positive take, which designers generally do. Luckily those ugly post-Brexit snapshots of an uneasy country seem to have passed them by. Instead, at Mulberry, we had Mitford style tea-dresses and ruffled mules – a delectable melee of wearable eccentricity.’ www.telegraph.co.uk

'A new warmth and charm': MM6 Margiela SS17

MM6 MAISON MARGIELA ‘While still anonymously designed, Maison Margiela's more accessible sister line MM6 embraced a new warmth and charm with nods to internet memes (who can resist the all-powerful cat video?) and exaggerated slouch, as well as humorous takes on the big-shouldered rugby uniform and biker jacket…’ www.hintmag.com